The other thin v-shaped part attaches at almost a 90-degree angle to the "nose." So, like the overlapping nose-to-eyes above, I glue the mouth to the bottom of this part instead of edge-to-edge like most everything else. Attach the thin curvy part first and at an angle back into space to help you get the idea about how the nose is shaped. Work slowly around from base to ends where you can, and they'll come together. Also note this template doesn't actually include these "Bliar Induction Filters" so you might want to make a small cylinder or conical shape from cardboard to put in here.
The concave bits where the "mic tips" (Bliar Induction Filters according to Wookieepedia & Image #6) go are strange and can be a bit difficult to spacially imagine as you work. Once you have the "nose" in place, it shows you exactly how the "mouth" parts should be folded. I overlap the "nose" part slightly and glue it on top of the "eyes" part to create depth and shape similar to the stormtrooper helmet has here. I don't know exactly what to call these parts, so I'm going with "nose" and "mouth."Īs you can see in the first picture, I sometimes start by attaching the ends of the "3814-7 Auto Seal Conduits" from the last step to the "nose" part to help shape the "mouth" area. This is the trickiest part, but after this, you're done. MUCH easier, but it won't fit on 8.5" x 11" sheets.
In the downloadable PDF here, the entire dome is one piece. *Image note: In the photo, you can see an older version of this template with 4 dome parts that are assembled as quarters. Gluing into the corrugated edges is method is my preference, but it also works well to hold the edges together and glue along the back/bottom/inside. Either way, apply the glue into the corrugated edges at the sides of the cardboard and either hold or tape the edges together as the glue dries/ cools. Hot glue can also be more forgiving as you can re-heat and re-glue if you're unsatisfied with your seam. Wood glue provides the cleanest and most sturdy finish, but hot glue is faster. I also use a rolling pin to flatten the corrugation inside the cardboard if that helps it fold easier. It may help to firmly press the parts down on an upside-down bowl to help work them into shape before gluing. The curved shape will come together if you work carefully and match up the edges precisely. Wear gloves and work slowly gluing from the middle to the ends. Start by gluing the many prongs of the top dome of the helmet together along their edges. If you want to do these projects with kids, or just don't want to work with a sharp blade, check out Make-do Safe Saw: and other similar tools.12" x 8" strip of tinted film for the visor (if desired- be careful wearing as visibility is limited).GLOVES! Laser cut edges are sharp! Use gloves especially if working with laser-cut carboard.Two 18" x 24" cardboard sheets (if using the files linked above) OR cut the pieces from a cereal box or case of beer for a super silly stormtrooper.
Print size is 18" x 24" (use acrobat to print it to multiple sheets if you are using a smaller printer) Sand the edges a bit for less risk of injury. Use gloves to avoid paper-cuts from laser cut cardboard (and hot glue). SAFETY NOTE: Always wear safety glasses when working with cutting tools. I have created downloadable template files to laser cut - or print, trace and cut your own cardboard or other ~1/4'' thick material. Here's a fun project for Halloween or just to create your own crazy Star Wars inspired creation.